Fishing boats on calm lagoon water in northern Sri Lanka

The North

Most visitors start in the south and never come this far. The Jaffna peninsula is flat, bright and salty — palmyra palms, lagoons, and a culture that feels closer to South India than to Colombo. This is home.

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Where the island begins.

Nallur Kandaswamy, its gold and red gopuram at the centre of Jaffna. In August the festival fills the streets for twenty-five days. Causeways run out west over shallow water to Kayts and Karainagar; ferries carry on to Nagadeepa and Delft, where wild ponies still roam.

Jaffna crab curry, odiyal flour from palmyra roots, sour fish curries and strong tea. It is spicier than the south, and proud of it. Point Pedro is the northernmost town in Sri Lanka — the point where the island stops. Every trip we drive starts here.