Trincomalee, the harbour and the sand
Four and a half hours down the east coast from us: one of the deepest natural harbours in the world, a Hindu temple on a cliff above it, and flat white beaches just north of town.
Koneswaram on Swami Rock
The temple sits on a headland with the sea on three sides, one of the five great Shiva sites on the island. Go barefoot, cover your shoulders, and look over the edge — the drop to the water is the reason the place has been sacred for as long as anyone has written things down.
Nilaveli, and the season
Ten minutes north the coast flattens into long white beaches with almost nothing built on them. Whales pass offshore in season. The east coast runs on the opposite calendar to the south — it is at its best when Galle and Mirissa are wet, which is exactly why we drive people here.
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